Azulejo, the ceramic square that enchants beyond Portugal

Azulejo, the ceramic square that enchants beyond Portugal

Crafted in Portugal for centuries, Azulejo continues to evoke feelings and continues to reinvent itself with new forms associated with the art of living, and more decorative. Its success goes hand in hand with that of the country.

It would be too simplistic to define azulejos as simple tiles, commonly seen adorning the walls of homes throughout Portugal, to protect dwellings from heat and salty air. Contrary to what its name suggests, the word “azul” (“blue” in Portuguese and Spanish) has nothing to do with this thing, since the latter comes from the Arabic word “Zulekha” and means “small polished stone.”

in the eighthe century, Moroccans from Morocco imported this style. With time and influences, the aesthetic adapts. to domesticated art He came from Andalusia. art decoPasses through baroque and the rococo, azulejos reveal endless features. Through the centuries, these pieces have always been very fashionable in Portugal. But twenty years ago, they fell into disuse because kitsch azulejo prints were somewhat prevalent on tablecloths and clothing.

“Before, we looked down on Portugal. Today, young people want to reconnect with their roots and their memory by tapping into the ‘good vibes’ of history”Vincent Gregoire, Creative Director at NellyRodi trend locker. With Portugal back in the favour ten years ago, the French are rediscovering a country full of surprises.

Since then, this typical craft of the country has attracted visitors. In the summer, many tourists pick up the pieces that have washed onto the ground over time, or try to pick up the pieces of enameled ceramic that hang uncertainly on the walls. But to get some, the best is to walk around town and stroll among the antique shops. Outside of these stores, those in the azulejos markets are often robbed.

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However, we can count on some emerging artists to renew this tradition. Today as yesterday, this product of globalization attracts an increasing number of international clients. Amateurs or professionals, everyone does their homework to update azulejos. And in his sauce.

Inspirational art practice

At Hyères les Palmiers, in Var, Villa Noailles hosts its annual festival, design procession. In the shop of the iconic White Labyrinth Building, designed this year by architect François Champseur, there are a little special azulejos. About thirty of them decorate the space and charm passersby.

Sold for 30 euros each, these azulejos buy. The cross-architect frequented for a long time among these tiles with eclectic patterns. Each piece is a unique piece: you have to make the right choice between a separate Greek-inspired horse or a sunset with a faux air for a postcard. Finally, she will set her sights on the horse with straight lines.

At the Design Parade 2021 in Toulon, on the project of François Lait and Alejandra Castellanos, Victor Marquet worked in the background on the right. | Luc Bertrand

Living in Porto, Victor Marquet is the creator of this business. This French porcelain made azulejos one of his specialties. Originally, he intended to become an architect, live in the City of Light and join a famous studio. both! The free spirit prefers to change his life and leaves to settle in Porto for six months, with 3,000 euros in his pocket. Five years later, he has not moved from Cidade Invicta (“Unoccupied City”, in Portuguese). There, immerse yourself in the city’s famous facades and discover ceramics. Then the azulejos and their history.

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The azulejos are handmade, unique and original, created in the workshop of Victor Marquet. | Victor Mark

During the Design Parade 2021, the artist is asked to make a sculpture much larger than he used to. The solution? Get inspired by your adopted city and put lots of squares together. So it falls into fate. “It became kind of a day job as soon as I wanted to work on architectural and mythological references…I improvise a bit.” Thus, Victor suffers from a lot of errors every day: “To get fifty high-quality tiles, you have to make a hundred”trust.

Ceramic artist Victor Marquet paints in his studio in Porto. Away from machinery, this Portuguese craft remains traditional. | Victor Mark

For Vincent Gregoire, we are far from yesterday’s glamour. In contrast to the great bourgeoisie of that time, azulejos are now much more popular. And this is the strength of Portugal: not in boasting, but in the idea of ​​proximity.confirms the trend specialist.

At the European craft store Siècle, in Paris, co-founder Marisa Osorio Farinha, of Portuguese descent, uses some of the country’s know-how such as cork and crockery… On the site, she says: “Since 2014, I have been rediscovering my country, leading a new project in which I was able to realize the dream of a full-fledged business, in which handcrafted frescoes, ceramics and printed linen shoulders are decorated with antique and modern furniture without ever forgetting the details of precious crockery.” In these more than private label there are beautiful handmade azulejos.

Azulejo, incarnation

In Portugal, there are different techniques. In general, it is a fairly diluted paint, which provides intensity with a watercolor effect. Depending on the use of a wooden board and the rolling of the boards, the technique may look “Middle Ages”as Victor sarcastically characterizes.

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To understand it, it is better to quickly dive into it. First he starts working on the panels. We select the soil and spread it to a good thickness on a wooden board. Then it is left to dry for twenty-four hours. The next day, it will be requoted. Once dry, it can work directly into the material.

“Ceramics have good technical properties, raw materials often come from short circuit, virtuous and logical.”


Vincent Gregoire, Creative Director at NellyRodi Fashion Closet

Then comes the furnace stage. Pre-baked, the so-called biscuit is taken out to be modified again. This is called enamel, which is the moment when the object is given the final color and the last substance. And for good reason: the artisan runs the material directly into volume, before it’s all baked “destroy it”. Never using the same materials; Pieces must be unique.

“Every day I try to change the soil: red, yellow, orange … with more or less granularity, so as not to take the reaction. I want to let myself be surprised by the ceramic materials and make mistakes and remain in my daily magic as soon as I open the oven »Victor comments. A primitive work of possibilities and endings without a machine. In less than two years, he produced between 6000 and 7000 pieces.

In the studio of Victor Marquet. biggest difficulty? Make sure the piece dries straight. | Victor Mark

However, it is not always easy to learn this craft on your own. Some have fully understood the allure of visitors to azulejos, and have taken advantage of it to live off their passion.

Make your room come alive

In front of a workshop in Lisbon, tourists on vacation eagerly stamp their feet. A special course is about to start. French Caroline Vidal, who has settled in Portugal from birth, is a painter specializing in azulejos. She teaches this craft and stirs emotions. In three hours of lessons, his one-day students learn the basics of this knowledge. He leaves with two azulejos made with their own hands.

Bachelor parties, school groups, families, Erasmus students or companies, all go through its cycles from 4 to 85 years! And for good reason: Personalized azulejos make beautiful souvenirs and original gifts. “Tourists would rather come and paint their azulejos than buy them in a store, even if that doesn’t stop them from doing so!”

Every year, customers differ slightly according to fashion. “Right now, I see a lot of Americans. Sometimes they’re Japanese, Chinese, Australian, Canadian… and some Portuguese.”, as described. So the French are far from being the only enthusiasts!

During a workshop offered by Caroline, a student applies for drawing. | Caroline Vidal

“The magic of making them themselves is a way to learn more about azulejos. It’s fun and relaxing”Caroline confirms. Like art therapy, touching, modeling, and feeling matter is more attractive, and even more so since the pandemic. “Ceramics have interesting technical properties that work well, as raw materials often come from a short, virtuous, and logical short circuit”, describes Vincent Gregoire. Before adding: “The fact that we’re reconnecting with ‘primary’ technologies, that tell stories and another relationship to time by forgetting about machines, that’s what people want.”

Finally, after being converted from its initial function, what is the purpose of this object? “It is strange that at the same time it can be something unique, and at the same time useless. The tile is supposed to cover the floor or the wall. There, there is a rather mysterious function, it becomes a peculiar decorative object that catches the eye and we want to touch it »In contrast to Victor Mark.

Not so long ago, she took part in a wedding in a palace in Lisbon. At an aperitif, all the guests painted tiles. Then the newlyweds, Americans of Portuguese descent, gathered them to make a table in their garden.Caroline Vidal remembers. When combined with other pieces as a tabletop, planted in a planter or hung on a wall, this free expression is limitless. As in creativity by Sarah Soares where From Sagrado Profano Azulejoswho do not hesitate to renew the genre, bringing it back into tune with the times, with a touch of humor and sensuality.

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About the Author: Germano Álvares

"Desbravador de cerveja apaixonado. Álcool alcoólico incurável. Geek de bacon. Viciado em web em geral."

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